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Hair ornament

National Museum of African Art

Object Details

Tukulor artist
Wolof artist
Label Text
Popular among fashionable Wolof and Tukulor women of Senegal during the 1940s and 1950s, these gold hair ornaments are worn in clusters of three on either side of the head, and sewn into an elaborate wig known as a gossi. The ornaments come in a rich variety of forms, from the pear-shaped variety to this globular or circular shape, which is known as a cadia. Cadia are paired with a central, dome-shaped ornament, crested with flowers and referred to as koulalat. All three incorporate delicate granulation, a technique of applying tiny balls of metal, known as thioup-thioup or pep to hammered sheet metal without the use of solder. Instead, the tiny balls are glued to the sheet metal using gum Arabic and a copper hydroxide solution. The piece is allowed to dry, then heated very slowly, causing a molecular exchange and fusion of the tiny surface decoration onto the sheet metal.
Because the Tukulor tended to favor the use of granulation to a greater degree, this hair ornament is likely Tukulor.
The holes pierced into the surface of this hollow ornament allow for ventilation during creation, but have become an important part of the style.
Description
Conical, or tear drop shaped hair ornament decorated in granulation and circular rings and topped by a small but plain bead and three groupings of double pierced almond shaped incisions; perforated around the circumerence. The bottom, thinner, half of the cone bears parallel lines of granulation flanked by decorative "braids." Gilt silver (gold wash silver).
Provenance
Marian Johnson, purchased in Dakar, Senegal, 1963-late 20th century to 2012
Content Statement
As part of our commitment to accessibility and transparency, the Smithsonian National Museum of African Art is placing its collection records online. Please note that some records are incomplete (missing image or content descriptions) and others reflect out-of-date language or systems of thought regarding how to engage with and discuss cultural heritage and the specifics of individual artworks. If you see content requiring immediate action, we will do our best to address it in a timely manner. Please email nmafacuratorial@si.edu if you have any questions.
Image Requests
High resolution digital images are not available for some objects. For publication quality photography and permissions, please contact the Eliot Elisofon Photographic Archives at https://africa.si.edu/research/eliot-elisofon-photographic-archives/
Credit Line
Gift of Dr. Marian Ashby Johnson
1940s-1950s
Object number
2012-18-8
Restrictions & Rights
Usage conditions apply
Type
Jewelry
Medium
Gilt silver (gold wash)
Dimensions
H x W x D: 4.6 x 2.8 x 2.8 cm (1 13/16 x 1 1/8 x 1 1/8 in.)
Geography
Senegal
See more items in
National Museum of African Art Collection
Object Name
Cadia
National Museum of African Art
Topic
Adornment
Female use
male
Record ID
nmafa_2012-18-8
Metadata Usage (text)
Usage conditions apply
GUID (Link to Original Record)
http://n2t.net/ark:/65665/ys70ad171f4-0bcb-45ce-8817-6914c1983ef3

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There are restrictions for re-using this image. For more information, visit the Smithsonian's Terms of Use page .
International media Interoperability Framework
IIIF provides researchers rich metadata and media viewing options for comparison of works across cultural heritage collections. Visit the IIIF page to learn more.
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